Gallery

Tuareg caravaneer. The head veil, known as 'taguelmoust', may exceed ten metres in length.

The famous minaret of Agadez mosque. Once an important cross-roads on ancient trade routes, Agadez is still occasionally visited by caravans for refurbishments.

Old friends and acquaintances meet in early autumn to form caravans.

There is always a 'madagu' or caravan chief - the most experienced and respected participant.

Camel fodder is cut before the barren Tenere and compressed into compact bales. Only a particular grass known as 'grifis' and 'amassa' are suitable. Absence of this grass following a drought - may prevent caravans from departing.

A rope is tossed over the neck of an obstinate camel to couch the animal for loading.

Caravans constantly need rope for attaching camels together and securing loads. Shoots from The Doum palm -'tagait' are particularily suitable for braiding.

Preparing tea and supper - usually a boiled porridge of millet with a herbal sauce.
The man to the left is weaving rope lengths from palm shoots.

A life giving glass of tea or 'chai'. Within the harsh and frugal world of caravans, the delicate preparation of tea seems strangely out of place. Small enamel tea pots and glasses are handled with great care and cleaned immaculately.

Crossing a grassy plain. The caravaneer is playing the 'kuge' - a small metal percussion instrument, much associated with Kel Gress caravans

Following the piste towards the solitary Mount Amzeqeur.

The 'taguelmoust' may be slackened or removed when working or in the company of friends.

Facing east, against bitingly cold winds, a caravaneer prays to Allah.

Caravan crossing the Tenere's dunes towards the oases of Fachi and Bilma. Each camel bears two fodder bales and two goatskins of millet for bartering against dates. A goat - for bartering against salt - is perched on a camel. The 'madagu's experience here is invaluable - he will guide the caravan safetly through the dunes.

The ritual of 'Ragu'.Young novices, referred to as 'ragu' - sheep, are subjected to a mock attack on their first crossing of the Tenere.

Caravans camped outside Fachi oasis. Fachi provides a welcome respite, and most caravans spend a day here before pressing on to Bilma - another four days. Fachi's salt is deemed inferior to that of Bilma.

Dusk over the beautiful and isolated Fachi oasis.

A 'marabout' or holyman of Fachi. Fachi has many marabouts, who make a living by offering prayers for the safety of caravans. The Tuareg, as tradition demands, must obtain their blessing before departure, for which they pay a token amount - either cash or goods.

Kanouri woman of Fachi barters dates for millet. Strong bonds of mutual help and benefit have long existed between both parties. Bartering ratios are affected by famine or conflict, but generally, two volumes of millet are exchanged for three of dates.

Sheep and goats are often carried across the Tenere atop camels. Both Fachi and Bilma lack fresh meat. If a cash sale is not possible, they are bartered for salt and goods.

Bilma. Salt deposits crystalize on the surface - the water table is only a few feet deep.

'Kalala' - Bilma's salt pits. By digging pits six to eight metres deep, a heavy brine is found. In summer time, temperature and evaporation causes a thin crust to crystalize on the surface. The crust is continuously broken down, causing fragments to sink and compose a sediment. The finest salt - 'beza' comes from the sediment's top layer. Impure salt is made into pillars and cakes, and destined for livestock.

Gathering in 'beza' from the brine pan's surface.

Kanouri making a salt pillar. The mould is made from a hollowed-out palm tree trunk.

Salt pillars or 'kantus' stacked ready for buyers. They weigh approx. 21 kilos and are made from a mixture of impure salt - destined for livestock.

Salt pillars are carefully examined before purchase.

Kanouri women fill plastic containers with water from a source near Kalala.

Women visit caravan camps gathering camel dung for their fires.Firewood and other combustibles are rare and expensive in Bilma.

The various salt moulds. Darker moulds are the 'kantou' and 'fochi' - for livestock use. The smaller pillar of 'beza' called 'choucoli' has become less popular. The small cakes of 'beza' are called 'doubour doubour' or 'tisingar'.

Kanouri woman with salt cakes - 'fochi'. Fochi, approx two kilos, are from the same mixture as the pillars or 'kantus'. Tradition dictates that pillars are solely a male concern and 'fochi' the reserve of women.

Women making 'fochi'.

Each morning Bilma's inhabitants visit Kalala to barter and chat.

The bulk of Bilma's salt is now transported by trucks. Caravans survive thanks to the resilience and adaptability of their economy. The impact of trucks has been somewhat exaggerated by journalists and some ethnologists.

A 'marabout' - holyman prays for the safety of a caravan before leaving Fachi on the return journey across the Tenere.

A 'madagu' leads camels across the dunes. Most camels manage six pillars. To avoid chafing sores and protect salt from breaking, pillars are wrapped in straw mats.

The strongest camels carry some 300 kilos plus a rider.

Caravan recrossing the Tenere westwards into the setting sun.

Firewood, cut and brought across the Tenere, often runs low. Here, a caravaneer blows on embers to reheat some tea.

Watering camels after the Tenere. On leaving Bilma, camels will not be watered for some twelve to fourteen days.

Prized camels are adorned with amulets.

Children rush to meet their fathers. When crossing the Tenere, wives and families remain anxious.

Caravaneers rest with their families a few weeks before continuing the journey south.

Going south, caravan tempo eases. Children and older relatives - not strong enough for the Tenere - often take part. Children are responsible for pounding and preparing millet for the evening meals.

Heading south.

Water is kept cool and fresh in goatskins - 'abiok'.

Father and son readjust a camel's load.

In a nest of salt pillars, a youngster tries in vain to repair an old radio.

Villages in the Damergou region of southern Niger each have a weekly market. The Tuareg arrive at first light to display their salt and dates.

Garare market. Buyers haggle humorously over salt prices. The Hausa, in particular, have a sweet tooth for dates.

In Damergou, the Tuareg go from market to market selling their salt.

Camels make way for Fulani and cattle.

A Hausa youth stops the Tuareg to buy some dates.

A Hausa millet farmer passes by to chat. Farmers frequently offer hospitality, for camel dung helps fertilize their fields. As with the Kanouri of Bilma, strong bonds of mutual benefit exist between Hausa millet farmers and Tuareg caravans.

The farmer will look after any problems and provide up to date advice on the best markets and current prices.

A farmer's wife offers food to their Tuareg guests.

The Agadez based charity - HED Tamat has established a depot in Tessaoua allowing caravaneers to deposit salt and baggage. The depot has proved a great success, especially with the Kel Timia.

The huge market of Talata Mafara near Sokoto, northern Nigeria.

Talata Mafara - close of market. With constant devaluation of the naira and growing bureaucracy, Tuareg don't enter Nigeria as much. One advantage, however, is that pillars can be sold in bulk to salt dealers.

Even when caravans don't enter Nigeria, Tuareg still visit Kano, where the 'alecho' is manufactured, by public transport. The 'alecho' - a traditional indigo head veil is a prized possession, only worn during ceremonies and special events. He may also buy for family and friends.

Caravaneer examines a pair of sandals in the market. Most commodities are cheaper in the south.

A young man applies eye-liner with the carbon rod of a discarded battery. As with many African cultures, facial adornment may be practised by both sexes.

Buying millet from a Hausa family near the border with Nigeria. Millet forms the staple diet for the caravaneer's family, and any surplus is bartered for dates in Bilma the following season.

Goatskin sacks - 'amital' are now refilled with millet.

Shoots from the Doum palm - 'tagait' are often bought and resold profitably.

Similar straw mats - 'shereben' as for protecting salt pillars are now used for millet sacks.